Chana Madra

Madra is the centrepiece of a Himachali Dham, the feast cooked by hereditary chefs called botis. The authentic version contains no onion, no garlic, no ginger and no tomato — the entire body of the dish comes from full-fat curd, whole spices and ghee. It is quieter than most North Indian curries and much more interesting than it sounds.

Ingredients

• 1½ cups chickpeas, soaked overnight and boiled until soft
• 2 cups full-fat curd (yoghurt), whisked completely smooth
• 4 tbsp Gobind Ghee
• 2 bay leaves, 1 inch cinnamon, 4 cloves, 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom
• 1 tsp cumin seeds, ½ tsp fennel seeds
• 1 tsp coriander powder, ½ tsp turmeric, ½ tsp red chilli powder
• ¼ tsp garam masala, a pinch of asafoetida
• 2 tbsp raisins and 8 chopped almonds, optional
• Salt to taste

Method

1. Whisk the curd until it is completely lump-free. Set it beside the stove — you will need both hands free.
2. Heat the ghee in a heavy pan on low. Add the asafoetida, then the whole spices, and let them release their scent without colouring, about 1 minute.
3. Add the cumin and fennel, then the powdered spices, and stir for 20 seconds.
4. Turn the heat to its lowest and pour in the whisked curd. Now stir continuously and do not stop until it comes to a boil. This takes 8 to 10 minutes. Stopping, even briefly, will split it.
5. Once it is bubbling gently, it is stable. Add the boiled chickpeas, the salt, and the raisins and almonds if using.
6. Simmer uncovered on low for 15 to 20 minutes, until the gravy thickens and the ghee rises to the surface.
7. Finish with the garam masala and rest 5 minutes before serving.

The ghee note

Four tablespoons for four servings looks like a lot until you understand that the ghee is what stops the curd from splitting and what carries the whole spices. When the dish is done you should see a film of ghee on the surface — that is the traditional sign that madra is ready.

Tips

• Full-fat curd only. Low-fat yoghurt will split however carefully you stir.
• Room-temperature curd behaves better than fridge-cold.
• Low flame throughout. There is no fast version of this dish.

Substitutions

Rajma or black-eyed peas make the same dish under different names. Kidney beans need longer cooking. Do not add onion or tomato and still call it madra.

Storage

Three days refrigerated. Reheat very gently — high heat will split the gravy even after cooking.

Serving

Plain steamed rice, as part of a Dham thali.

Nutrition

Approximately 420 kcal per serving, based on four servings. Estimated values.